THE UNSUNG SUPERWOMEN OF FASHION
making process; courtesy of Magda Koluch
While lead designers receive the spotlight for their creative vision, fashion thrives on teamwork. From translating designs into their physical form to ensuring their exceptional finish, a skilled technical team is what brings the dream to life. Seamstresses, pattern makers, tailors, and technicians – each one plays a crucial role. Haute couture houses are leading the way in acknowledging this backstage magic.
Valentino’s shows and campaigns, often celebrating their atelier team’s voices, serve as one of the examples to follow. In 2018, Pierpaolo Piccioli eloquently challenged the popular term “petite mains”; (little hands) when speaking with Sarah Mower: “They are not just hands, they’re people.”
Moreover, the art of handmade isn’t exclusive to Paris and haute couture alone. Behind every garment lies a unique narrative of the maker with a story to tell. Hours spent bent over sewing machines and worktables, transforming ideas into runway-ready pieces... The input of craftspeople in fashion should be loudly celebrated. Without them, the garments simply wouldn’t exist.
This article shines a light on two such inspiring figures: Magda Koluch and Kasia Borowicz. With over 20 years of experience each, they possess unique superpowers in knitwear and leather, respectively. Their contributions to the fashion industry deserve recognition.
Magda Koluch finishing a feathered mini for One/Of brand; photo by: Jancarlo Cortez; courtesy of the artisan
Magdalena Koluch is a handcraft specialist focusing on all things hook and needle—crochet, macramé, lace… As a knitwear freelancer, she assists luxury brands in developing their runway looks. Her clients include Ralph Lauren, Ulla Johnson, DKNY, Gabriella Hearst, and One Of NY, to name just a few.
"What sets my work apart from others? I think it's the sleekness of my work, the precision of the execution. I’m always patient and strive for perfection" Magda says. She credits the foundation of her skills to her mother, starting with basics such as how to hold the needles properly. "My first needles were plastic. I squeezed them so tightly with my hands that they almost bent into a bow" she recalls with a laugh. Her accuracy and incredible attention to detail are also thanks to her mother. "I would learn different techniques, embroidery, cross-stitching. Whatever it was, even with one mistake, Mom would say, 'Unpick it, start over.' My heart ached so much, but it became ingrained in me that if there is a mistake, you must clench your teeth and start over. And it brings results. The quality of the product speaks for itself."
For her, the final moment, when a product hits the runway and people admire it, is the most fulfilling. "It is the best culmination of all the hard work and sweat that went into the creation." As a passionate problem solver, she enjoys the difficult, initial stage of work, filled with technical challenges and solving design riddles. "Sometimes you have to propose something almost against the design, in order to render the designer's idea in the most successful way. Sometimes you make two prototypes. Sometimes there is no time, and you have to get it right in just one go."
Magda warmly recalls projects realized for Gabriela Hearst, whose collections are renowned for celebrating elaborate craftsmanship and people behind it. The SS20 collection included a number of looks with agate stones set into garments through intricate crochet. The flawless execution owes to Magda’s skilful hands. "The stones were a challenge" she says. "The company sent them to various factories, and no one came up with a good technique. But in a few days, I found a way. 'That’s exactly what I wanted! How did you do it?' Gabriela asked. I heard from designers that my work moved her to tears!" Magda recalls proudly. "Each stone was a different size, so it took time and precision. It simply had to be made by hand. The final effect was my great success. Translating such a creative vision into reality is truly satisfying.”
"Like many female immigrants, I made my first dollar cleaning. Cleaning, taking care of the elderly, cooking… There’s no shame in hard work. Ever. I mention my beginnings in every interview" she says. A plot twist in her career came unexpectedly. "One day, my friend's daughter came across a random ad seeking people skilled in crochet for a big commission" Magda recalls with laughter, admitting her surprise to see such an opportunity in New York. Although she had spent her downtime crocheting for as long as she could remember, the thought of turning it into a profession had never crossed her mind.
Following this project, she continued her work with a business that employed various craftswomen for luxury fashion projects. Having learned quickly, Magda made the bold decision to establish her own business and began working under her own name.
"It was challenging in the beginning. There were no shortcuts; despite having worked on various projects previously, I lacked personal contacts – I relied solely on my skills and determination" Magda recalls her first breakthrough after making hundreds of cold calls to fashion houses she found online. "Eventually, someone saw potential and said, 'Come on in, let's talk!' It was DKNY. I knew this was my chance to shine, and I seized those five minutes with both hands. After the interview, I was immediately given my first design to complete within a week. It was probably around 2010… The first major collection that I realized under my own name."
While Magda admits there aren’t many occasions to collaborate with fellow Poles in the industry, she warmly recalls her collaboration with Rafal Swiader (images below). A New York-based designer from Poland, he commissioned her to craft cardigans and transparent vests for his gender-inclusive offering. "He is a very talented designer with a beautiful, clean aesthetic. I enjoyed working on his pieces. Also, he's a kind and great person to work with."
Magda looks to the future with excitement for more and a sense of fulfilment for what she has accomplished so far. "I feel fulfilled as a mom, and I love what I am doing professionally" she reflects. "One of my dreams is to have a dedicated studio to separate my home from my creative space. I would also love to get a spinning wheel and try re-spinning yarn waste into something new. It's been a trend lately, and I would love to try it myself."
Check out Magda’s Instagram page @MaggieFashionStudio for regular updates on her collaborations.
Fashion faces a paradoxical situation: the demand for skilled craftspeople, like Magda, is skyrocketing, yet the pool of such talent is rapidly shrinking. Luxury houses are stepping up to address this challenge by investing in the preservation and transmission of craft through academies and dedicated projects. For instance, Bottega Veneta has just recently launched the Accademia Labor et Ingenium, where the company's master artisans train a new generation of craftspeople. Graduates are guaranteed employment within the company, ensuring the continuity of their savoir-faire.
"There's a critical dearth of specialists like us in the industry. The landscape is dominated by older people, myself included" says Kasia Borowicz, laughing. She is a skilled tailor with 20 years of experience in the London fashion scene, having worked on iconic show looks for luxury brands like Alexander McQueen, Chalayan, Roland Mouret, and Nicole Farhi. Her varied experience offers a unique 360-degree perspective on the fashion industry, having worked with students, designers, fellow craftspeople, and private clients. "It's both a privilege and a responsibility to carry on this legacy, though it's quite worrying for future generations."
Alongside her career working in technical teams for various fashion brands, Kasia boasts years of experience working with students holding workshops and lectures at various universities - over a decade at Kingston University and currently at Cambridge’s Anglia Ruskin University. She also offers private mentorship to emerging designers.
"The truth is that young people enter universities with the mindset of becoming the next creative director. Everyone wants to be a designer, but alternative careers are largely undervalued. Meanwhile, the market is oversaturated with creatives, lacking people with the knowledge to make and do it well" she observes. Moreover, fashion schools don't provide adequate training to ensure that students' making skills are sufficient. As a result, students often end up learning these skills on their own from "sewing ladies" on YouTube or TikTok accounts. "In this age of AI and digital dominance, we can't afford to neglect hands-on skills and traditional crafts" Kasia emphasizes. "The 'made by human' label will only become more valuable."
Kasia acquired her professional making skills very early on. Hailing from the Podhale region of Poland, she was a student at the Vocational Craft School in Zakopane. "It was a wonderful school, founded in the 19th century by the actress Helena Modrzejewska herself, to support folk handicrafts in the textile industry for local girls" she recalls. "The school taught everything from lace making and embroidery to tailoring and artistic weaving—the only one of its kind in Poland at that time." The school eventually closed in 2008, a decision that is very regrettable given the growing demand for crafts and the burgeoning fashion industry in Poland today.
"Living in the Podhale region, which isn't an industrial hub, the only job I could find after graduating was in the renowned Nowy Targ fur industry. It was there that I developed my skills in sewing leather, sheepskin coats, and furs" she reminisces. This experience proved invaluable when she migrated to the UK and noted a shortage of qualified makers in the field. One of her first opportunities was at the prestigious General Leather Co., (today known as Cromford Leather Co.), a Marylebone-based atelier providing bespoke leather goods for celebrities, films, and high-end fashion brands. "I spent over 11 years there, sewing leather for famous rock stars" she recalls.
One of Kasia's many memorable career moments was crafting leather garments for Richard Quinn's AW18 collection, attended by a special guest, Queen Elizabeth II. Kasia recalls the proud feeling that a product she made was admired by the monarchy. Another recent highlight came when she collaborated with animator Em Cooper, the winner of the Grammy 2024 best music video for The Beatles' "I'm Only Sleeping.” Kasia transformed the artist's acrylic painting style from the video into a tailored jacket worn at the gala.
She admits that working with students and passing on her knowledge brings her the most fulfilment. "It's a different kind of reward" she reflects. "When students reach out to me and express their gratitude for my guidance and even for the mental support during the stress of final collection, it really touches me. If I could, I would wholeheartedly dedicate myself just to teaching and passing on the knowledge."
Speaking about her dreams and future, she shares, "I'd like to see greater visibility and credit given to the teamwork involved in fashion. This includes not only technical teams but also interns. It's quite painful to see so many young people working so hard and being largely exploited by the system. Their contributions should be acknowledged.” Moreover, Kasia dreams of steadily expanding her educational practice. She runs sewing courses and consultancies for makers of all levels and hopes to attract greater attention from younger age groups, ensuring that handmade skills persevere and carry on.
If you’re interested in joining one of her courses, you can check more information on her Facebook page.
Her popular Youtube channel is a brilliant resource offering invaluable tips on sewing leather.
And if you’re a designer seeking consultancy or collaboration you can contact her directly here: kborowicz72@gmail.com
Words by Paulina Czajor